À la Une

Le Pic du Canigou

Le massif du Canigou est la montagne symbolique du pays Catalan. C’est un formidable belvédère sur la partie orientale des Pyrénées, d’où l’on peut admirer la plaine du Roussillon ainsi que la mer méditerranée.

Son ascension est relativement facile, à la portée de tout marcheur entraîné. Nous l’avons gravi en juillet 2019

Le refuge des Cortalets, notre point de départ de l’ascension du pic du Canigou que l’on aperçoit au loin
La première partie de l’ascension est un enchantement !
Des Azalées en fleur,
Quel bonheur !
Toutes ces azalées me rappellent la Corée !
Un isard peu farouche nous indique de le suivre !
Un champ rose ! Est-ce que je rêve ?
Encore un !
Mais oui, j’indique les quatre points cardinaux depuis un siècle !
Vous ne trouvez pas que le rose me va bien ?
Je n’arrive toujours pas à y croire !
Par contre, ça monte…
Qu’importe !
La moindre faille dans la roche me permet de fleurir
La deuxième partie du parcours longe la crête sommitale et devient plus minérale
Est-ce le sommet devant nous ?
Que neni !
Mais non, il ne s’agit pas de la pyramide de
Keops !
Toujours plus haut !
Au sommet !
Le panorama à 360° est imprenable : la mer Méditerranée à l’est, l’Espagne catalane au sud, la chaîne des Pyrénées à l’ouest et la Catalogne française au nord.
Une petite pause réparatrice bien à l’abri du vent
Devant le mur d’escalade que nous n’affronterons pas !
La chaîne des Pyrénées vers l’ouest
Je voudrais un jardin aussi beau que celui-ci !
La descente est toujours aussi envoûtante
Surprise !
Le jour suivant, après avoir quitté le refuge et récupéré notre voiture, la route du retour nous joue un tour !

Un glissement de terrain a fermé l’unique route, impossible de s’échapper !
Il nous faudra attendre un mois avant que la route nous laisse passer… en voiture !
Ce qui n’enlèvera rien à notre bon souvenir !

New Zealand

New Zealand is often referred to as the « clean and green » country. It is up to its reputation! In NZ, you can tramp on mountains, on volcanoes, in rainforests or along endless beaches, you can swim with dolphins and watch whales, seals and penguins, you can go white-water rafting and many more! The choice and the fun is endless.

Another fact about NZ is the ratio men/sheep. About 3.5 million inhabitants against 70 million sheep! In other words, 20 sheep per person, and it shows!

In 1998, we spent a month (February) travelling from north to south, from the Bay of Islands and the ninety Mile beach in the far north, down to the Fjords and the Catlins facing Steward Island in the far south.

THE NORTH ISLAND

Auckland has an american skyline

Auckland has an american skyline

The dream team on the verge to tour New Zealand...

In the Bay of Islands, the dream team on the verge to tour New Zealand…

Now, I could be a seagull...

Now, I could be a seagull…

Was I a Maori in a previous life?

Was I a Maori in a previous life?

On a boat for dolphins watching

On a boat for dolphins watching

In the craters of the moon in Wairakei

In the craters of the moon in Wairakei

Near Hamilton, our camp is gorgeous!

Near Hamilton, our camp is gorgeous!

Wellington, the capital city, looks modern and sleeping

Wellington, the capital city, looks modern and sleepy

On the ferry from Wellington to Picton, in the South Island

On the ferry from Wellington to Picton, in the South Island

THE SOUTH ISLAND

Along Queen Charlotte sounds...

Along Queen Charlotte sounds…

We enjoyed sightseeing along the Bob's Bay walk

…we enjoyed sightseeing along the Bob’s Bay walk

Along Bob's Bay walk

Along Bob’s Bay walk

Mussels fishing in Malborough sounds...

Mussels fishing in Malborough sounds…

... and mussels eating!

… and mussels eating!

FISHING

In Queen Charlotte sounds, we met Rachel and Richard...

In Queen Charlotte sounds, we met Rachel and Richard…

... and went fishing in their boat...

… and went fishing in their boat…

Hi Suk did the best performance in catching so many fishes with outrageous luck!

Hi Suk did the best performance in catching so many fishes with outrageous luck!

Our Motueka camp at sunset, at the eve of trekking (trampling in New Zealander) along the Abel Tasman walk

Our Motueka camp at sunset, at the eve of trekking (tramping in New Zealander) along the Abel Tasman walk

THE ABEL TASMAN COASTAL TRACK

At Marahau, after registering, we're ready to go for a three day walk...

At Marahau, after registering, we’re ready to go for a four day walk…

The Abel Tasman trail is sometimes a beach...

The Abel Tasman trail is sometimes a beach…

A nice spot to enjoy the sea side: this bench is really tempting...

A nice spot to enjoy the sea side: this bench is really tempting…

Crossing a river on a swinging bridge over a canyon seems to be fun!

Crossing a river on a swinging bridge over a canyon seems to be fun!

Sea urchins are sometimes on the menu!

Sea urchins are sometimes on the menu!

No wonder NZ is so green,  it does rain sometimes!

No wonder NZ is so green,  it does rain regularly!

There are plenty of secluded beaches, just for me!

There are plenty of secluded beaches, just for me!

We also decided to spend a day kayaking. Just great! But our arms were less trained than our legs...

We also decided to spend a day kayaking. Just great! But our arms were less trained than our legs…

Near Anchorage hut, a bay has to be crossed, at low tide only!

Near Anchorage hut, a bay has to be crossed, at low tide only!

After a good meal, we feel invigorated!

After a good meal, we feel invigorated!

THE CAPE FOULWIND TRACK

At Cape Foulwind, we were only 16.000 km away from home...

At Cape Foulwind, we were only 16.000 km away from home…

A strong wind and a hot sun made the perfect weather for tramping!

A strong wind and a hot sun made the perfect weather for tramping!

This is where we met the Weka (Gallirallus australis), easier to watch than the Kiwi!

This is where we met the Weka (Gallirallus australis), easier to watch than the Kiwi!

RAFTING AT BULLER GORGE

Ready to go, and still dry!

Ready to go, and still dry!

The last time someone witnessed the vanished boat and team!

The last time someone witnessed the vanished boat and team!

Even a swing bridge is no fun after rafting!

Even a swing bridge is no fun after rafting!

At Punakaiki pancake rocks, I wonder if I could swallow so many pancakes!

At Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, I wonder if I could swallow so many pancakes!

THE WESTLAND

Lake Matheson is kind'a "romantic"

Lake Matheson is kind’a « romantic »

The Fox glacier, coming down Mt Cook, ends in a luxurious forest!

The Fox glacier, coming down Mt Cook, ends in a luxurious forest!

Gillepsie's beach: the desolate beach where I landed after I shipwrecked...

Gillepsie’s beach: the desolate beach where I landed after I shipwrecked…

THE KEPLER TRACK

This four day walk gives access to the Kepler mountains at the end of the lake Te Anau. It includes an alpine stretch which requires good weather conditions to be done. Due to heavy rain and strong winds, we had to wait half a day for the green light from the hut warden before climbing and tramping along a high ridge line.

Day 1 is easy enough with many lakeside and riverside sections!

Day 1 is easy enough with many lakeside and riverside sections!

On day 2, fighting the gales and the rain!

On day 2, fighting the gales and the rain!

Wind is blowing at 150 km/h!

Wind is blowing at 150 km/h…

...but not strong enough to prevent smiling!

…but not strong enough to prevent smiling!

Back under the tree line, we feel relieved!

Back under the tree line, we feel relieved!

Day 3 is more relaxing, it looks like you're in a rainforest!

Day 3 is more relaxing, it looks like you’re in a rainforest!

On a swing bridge, the well named!

On a swing bridge, the well named!

Though the Fiordland climate is far from being tropical, there's so much rain that rainforest is everywhere below the tree line!

Though the Fiordland climate is far from being tropical, there’s so much rain that rainforest is everywhere below the tree line!

On the last day, before finishing the 4 day loop, we played "korean poker"

On the last day, before finishing the 4 day loop, we played « korean poker »!

THE MILFORD SOUND

As we were running out of time, we couldn’t tramp the world famous Milford track which requires, at this time of the year, an advance booking of several days at least! Anyway, we paid a visit to the Milford sound and took a boat cruising the fjord.

Approaching Milford sound!

Approaching Milford sound!

The entrance of the Milford sound is breathtaking!

The entrance of the Milford sound is breathtaking!

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

On the boat in the scenic Milford fjord.

No, this is not Norway! Just Milford fjord!

No, this is not Norway! Just Milford fjord!

In Milford fjord, water cascades everywhere!

In Milford fjord, water cascades everywhere…

... as well as fur seals!

… and fur seals can be seen everywhere!

MOREAKI BOULDERS

Boulders are plenty on Mars... and in Otago NZ!

Boulders are plenty on Mars… and in Otago NZ!

Some of them are even colonized!

Some of them are even colonized!

In the Catlins, the yellow-eyed penguins can be seen... at least on the road signs!

In the Catlins, the yellow-eyed penguins can be seen… at least on the road signs!

That’s all folks!

Trekking in Hawaii

In 1999, we spent a month in Hawaii.

First, a few hours in Honolulu, just enough to realise how far Waikiki is from a dream island: concrete, steel and glass;  shops, crowds and traffic jams.

Then we flew to Kawaii to trek along the world famous NA PALI trail. This was our main reason to go there. Definitely the best trail anywhere! For days you walk along a trail winding up and down, suspended in between the ocean and steep cliffs. You shift within minutes from arid land to luxurious tropical jungle, from lava mountainous landscapes to sandy beaches. At any moment, from this trail, you can see herds of dolphins down the cristal clear seawater and, now and then, whales, sometimes alone, sometimes by two or three. Trekking there among fabulous flowers and trees is a permanent feast.

You’re not a trekker until you’ve done the Na Pali trail!

Next, we toured Big Island and enjoyed the VNP (Volcano National Park) and enjoyed its natural beauty: lava plains, lava craters, lava sculptures, lava plants and lava flows. We even went to the top of Mauna Kea to enjoy a lunar landscape.

Our first view in hawaii: Honolulu in Waikiki
Our first view in hawaii: Honolulu in Waikiki

Our next view of Hawaii: Kawaii island
Our next view of Hawaii: Kawaii island

A coconut girl in a coconut grove?
A coconut girl in a coconut grove?

The start of the Na Pali trail in Kawaii island!
The start of the Na Pali trail in Kawaii island!

On the road!
On the road! Sorry, on the trail!

A nice beach... for sea-weeds!
A nice beach... for sea-weeds!

Between ocean and cliffs, landscapes are breathtaking!
Between ocean and cliffs, landscapes are breathtaking!

A pictures hunter
A pictures hunter

Watching flowers
Watching flowers

Climbing up
Climbing up

Are you coming or not?
Are you coming or not?

Lost amid tropical plants
Lost amid tropical plants

It's quite difficult to find enough space to put a tent!
It's quite difficult to find enough space to put a tent!

The trail is never ending, but you never get bored with the views!
The trail is never ending, but you never get bored with the views!

Zoom out
Zoom out

Zoom in
Zoom in

If you still think it's a flat and hospitable island...
If you still think it's a flat and hospitable island...

Green and blue, that's it?
Green and blue, that's it?

How many colors do you get there?
How many colors do you get there?

The trail has VANISHED!
The trail has VANISHED!

A mountain ridge diving into the ocean
A mountain ridge diving into the ocean

At the end of the trail, a beach and a crowd: 5 people!
At the end of the trail, a beach and a crowd: 5 people!

A nice spot where to camp...
A nice spot where to camp...

Running water is a plenty!
Running water is a plenty!

A cold shower at any time...
A cold shower at any time...

A Hawaian sunset...
A Hawaian sunset...

Next, we went to Waimea canyon.

Waimea canyon
Waimea canyon

Waimea canyon
Waimea canyon

Waimea canyon
Waimea canyon

Waimea canyon
Waimea canyon

Our final leg was Big Island the well named, with its world famous Volcano National Park.

Our convertible four liter engine spoiling car for spoiled people...
Our convertible four liter engine spoiling car for spoiled people...

On  top of Mauna Kea volcano, the highest mountain on earth: 12,000 m above the sea bed!
On top of Mauna Kea volcano, the highest mountain on earth: 12,000 m above the sea bed!

Looks like on the moon, but for the blue sky. Don't you agree?
Looks like on the moon, but for the blue sky. Don't you agree?

Growing on Mauna Kea slopes is no fun!
Growing on Mauna Kea slopes is no fun!

How could you look sunburn on a black lava beach...
How could you look sunburnt on a black lava beach...

Our base camp at the VNP
Our base camp at the VNP

A 2 km wide crater among many!
A 2 km wide crater among many!

Lava wrinkles, unless it is laces?
Lava wrinkles, unless it is laces?

Crossing a crater
Crossing a crater

You could cook a meal or anything, but certainly your soles!
You could cook a meal or anything, but certainly your soles!

Anybody here? I feel I'm getting sucked in...
Anybody here? I feel I'm getting sucked in...

At the sculpture museum!
At the sculpture museum!

HELP! The earth is splitting apart!
HELP! The earth is splitting apart!

Too late...
Too late...

One more casualty: engulfed by the soft lava!
One more casualty: engulfed by the soft lava!

It used to be a road...
It used to be a road...

A war torn landscape!
A war torn landscape!

A few years later, a natural garden has appeared, without any man interferring!
A few years later, a natural garden has appeared, without any man interferring!

Trails are crisscrossing the VNP
Trails are crisscrossing the VNP

On a rainy day!
On a rainy day!

Birds are not afraid of man
Birds are not afraid of man

Flowers are quickly colonizing the new lava fields!
Flowers are quickly colonizing the new lava fields!

The wonderful Tibouchina, ever present in Hawaii!
The wonderful Tibouchina, ever present in Hawaii!

The end folks!

 

Along the Pyrenees mountains GR10 trail

Created in 1963, the GR 10 is a French GR footpath, or hiking trail, that runs the length of the Pyrenees Mountains. It roughly parallels the French-Spanish border on the French side. The entire trail stretches from Hendaye on the Atlantic Ocean to Banyuls-sur-Mer on the Mediterranean Sea. (The Spanish GR 11 is a similar route on the Spanish side of the border, while the « Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne » (HRP) follows a generally higher route through the Pyrenees, from mountaintop to mountaintop, frequently crossing the border).

Hiking the entire route is estimated to take around 2 months for hikers who are in good shape. The trail covers a distance of 866 kilometres, with 48,000 metres of ascent!

In June 2001, we hiked along the central part of the GR10, namely from Arrens to Bagnères de Luchon, with a complete week based in the Gavarnie mountain refuge from which we carried out day’s hiking into all directions.

Week 1 

The first days were awful, it seemed we would never make it! Our training on the flat trails in the Paris area was definitely insufficient!

Priority is to the left…

Are you sure we have to climb this?

It’s so simple, just follow the trail!

Pavot de Californie

It’s not the top yet, still, we did a good job!

Ilheou mountain refuge, the welcome! Hi Suk is watching a « gypaete » (bearded vulture) by the glacier lake

Watching trouts…

At the foot of Vignemale the beautiful, a climber’s dream (or nightmare?). Its top reaches 3300 m.

Gentiane

A marmot following Hi Suk

Fed up with rain Today. It’s been a non stop rain since morning!

Pont d’Espagne, the ill-named as it is well located in France!

Above a sea of clouds

Rhododendron

Near the pass, it’s getting pretty cold!

Week 2

From the Gavarnie cirque mountain refuge, which became our base for a while, we hiked around for many days, enjoying fabulous landscapes and a gorgeous weather. We also entered Spain through the famous « breche de Roland ».

In « The Song of Roland » poem, Count Roland, Charlemagne’s nephew, attempts to destroy his sword « Durendal » to prevent it from being captured by the ambushing Saracens and creates « La Brèche de Roland » in the Pyrenees in the process. But Durendal proves indestructible, so he hurls it into a poisoned stream instead. Local folklore claims Durendal still exists, preserved in Rocamadour, France.

A half day trek to Gavarnie cirque, without a backpack, is just great!

On the way to Gavarnie cirque waterfall

The pyramidal « Pain de sucre » (sugar loaf), much bigger than Kheops!

I did it!

Crocus

On the way to « la breche de Roland »

Here’s the so famous « breche de Roland » ! A kind of door between Spain and France on the mountain ridge.

At this stage, no mountain can stop this splendid walking machine!

An eagle paparazzo!

The spanish side of the mountain range is much drier.

Apparently enjoying Spain…

Soldanelle des Carpates

Break time is always welcome!

Landscapes can be breathtaking!

Are you my friends or not? thinks the marmot

In June, you still face snow as soon as you get high enough

Looks like the silk road across Afghanistan!

 Week 3

On the trail again, with difficult legs ahead ; when high altitude and bad weather combine, the trail addicts suffer!

At Mademate pass (2510 m), it’s freezing and bad weather is rushing on us…

On the way down to lac Aumar, the trail requires sometimes acrobatic skills!

The next day, after the snow storm, it was awfully difficult as there was no way the trail could be seen under the snow! After a while, we had to give up and walked along a closed road down to the nearest valley where snow was shallow. But that day was freezing cold and the worst ever. In the afternoon, we knew we couldn’t make the leg, so we gave up and ended up in a hotel to warm up!

Fortunately, the following day was glorious, and the landscapes outstanding…

…so we just walk around to enjoy weather and scenery, and recover from the previous day ordeal.

Week 4

The final week was quiter and more pastoral. In spite of the many difficulties and hardship, our legs were then made out of concrete so that nothing could slow us down. And on top of that, the many lakes dotting the landscapes were shining like jewels, attracting us further and further!

On the trail again, for longer but easier steps

Jean Claude parapenting

Ancolie

At Vielle-Aure, after a very long day…

Espingo lake and refuge chalet :so isolated but so rewarding! Once there, you just don’t want to leave…

At Espingo mountain refuge, in the sun, facing the lake, you enjoy the pleasure of the spirit, of the eyes and of the palate…

First, you think you have found paradise. But you’re wrong, by far! This place is so remote that everything has to be brought in or out by helicopter… So we stopped buying food!

Lys Martagon

J C’s riding a sand worm like a fremen on Dune planet (Dune by Frank Herbert)

Oo the well named! (specially when seen from above)

The view over Oo lake makes you forget how steep the trail is!

For hours, we could enjoy this Oo lake…

On the last leg, we walked down the whole day…

Can you see the trail?

Bye bye Pyrenees!

Hiking in Alaska

Mt McKinley

Alaska (mainland in inuit language) is by far the largest state of the USA. It is three times bigger than continental France. Alaska is one of two U.S. states not bordered by another state, Hawaii being the other. The state is bordered by the Yukon Territory and British Columbia, Canada, to the east, the Gulf of Alaska and the Pacific Ocean to the south, the Bering Sea, Bering Strait, and Chukchi Sea to the west and the Arctic Ocean to the north. 

The best way to visit Alaska is to get on a trail. More than three quarters of Alaska is land locked up as parks, wildlife preserves and national forests. Alaska is also home of the highest peak in North America: Mt McKinley (6194 m).

We spent August 1999 hiking in two parks: Denali, to watch Mt McKinley, then Wrangell-St Elias.

1 – Arrival at Anchorage

Anchorage is blooming in August

First encounter of the bear type!

2 – Little Coal Creek Trail in Denali park

Denali park: Little coal creek trail

In Denali park, Little Coal Creek trail is a 30 mile trail famous for its breathtaking views of Mt McKinley. For days, we followed it through without getting a single glimpse of the mountain! It’s only when we boarded a car on the next day after the trek to leave the park that we saw Mt McKinley top out of the clouds!

Watching scores of red salmons (August is salmon run time)

My largest kitchen ever!

Picking up blue berries in my largest garden ever!

This bathroom offers only cold showers!

Hopping from lake to lake. I’m glad to know that Alaska includes about three million lakes, so I’m not done!

Skinny lake the well named!

Delicious blueberries will be again on the menu…

Opening a passageway through the boulders …

… and another one for climbers!

Some modestly call these boulders « Stonehenge »

Who said it’s an easy trail?

A painter’s dream!

You bet I’m tired!

Looks as big as Ayers Rock… but greener!

Did you see how BIG is my backpack?

A yellow living creature matching a yellow lichen background, some call it mimetism…

Are you sure we have to go on?

After four days of hiking along this trail, all we can do is pointing at Mt McKinley ghost, as it never showed up!

Is this ground squirrel (marmot) trying to console us?

This is for sure, these flowers are!

3 – Wrangell-St Elias National Park

Wrangell-St Elias Nat. Park sprawls across over 13 million acres in the south central region of Alaska. It abuts against Canada’s Kluane Nat. Park and together their 20 million acres represent one of the largest wilderness area left in the world.

The road to McCarthy, the main access to Wrangell-St Elias NP, begins with a highway sign informing you that the bridge at the end is washed out. Then it warns you to watch out for loose spikes. And finally it sends you off with this blessing: Drive at your own risk! At mile 60, the road abruptly stops. Over the Kennicott river, a footbridge leads you to McCarthy, a hamlet with a year-round population of 8 to 12 people, depending on who’s staying for the winter.

When we hitchhiked back to Anchorage, we met Malcom who drove us to McCarthy where he owned a cabin and a piece of land. This is where we had our base (on his land) for several weeks while we trekked for a few days at a time, along the Root glacier or the Bonanza mine for exemple (the world’s richest copper deposit ever found).

At McCarthy general store

At McCarthy country store

We shared a bottle of wine with Malcom

Along Root glacier

Along Root glacier

Along Root glacier

Walking and sliding on Root glacier

Breakfast by Root glacier

On this morning, before having breakfast, we had to wait until a black bear would clear the way so that we could retreive our food bag hidden (as every night) on top of a tree!

One of the bears we met along the trails…

The trail to Bonanza copper mine, with Kennicott and Root glaciers in the background

Above the tree line!

It looks like a volcano, but it’s only erosion!

Copper ore is everywhere…

On top of Bonanza peak!

A view from Bonanza peak

Near Glennallen airport, just before flying back to Anchorage and the civilization, I found my home!

Tour du Mont Blanc

The « Tour du Mont Blanc » is a ten to fifteen day trek around « Mont Blanc », Europe highest mountain.

Our trek lasted a full week. We did it clockwise, starting from « Le Tour » village just above Chamonix, and ending at « Notre Dame de la Gorge » close to « Les Contamines ». This represent about tree quarter of a full revolution, hence the duration.

After a week of intensive training, we joined a group lead by a guide… and a mule. To do it in a group limits your freedom, but has as main advantage to have a tent waiting for you every night and a mule to carry half your luggage. Our mule, Noisette (hazelnut in english) became soon our heroine when she proved so skilled and strong at climbing anywhere day after day. And withsole salary… grass and the carrots I had brought for her.

So we toured the Mont Blanc in July 2007. One of our most exhilarating experience!

Week 1 (training)

The pretty Le Tour village near Chamonix where we dropped our car and spent the first week.

Not quite near the top!

Lys martagon

Facing « les Aiguilles Rouges »

Nice encounter

Am I pretty?

Checking our location with GPS

Never high enough!

Facing les Aiguilles Vertes and Mont Blanc

At the top!

Over 2000 m high, it’s getting chilly

Azalea are still blooming in July

Shall we dash away or not?

Stilted water in lac Blanc

Week 2 (touring Mont Blanc)

Hi Suk, the guide and the mule Noisette. Who’s overloaded?

A crowd of trekkers crossing the swiss border

Ferret pass. We’re still fresh in the morning!

It seems it’s always climbing up!

La Peula, our only indoor bivouac. Hay can be a fabulous mattress!

Who said slit eyes?

Just follow the trail…

At Mt Dolent, the top of which belongs to France, Swizerland and Italy.

Beautiful gentian

Fabulous edelweiss

Great view at grand Ferret pass!

In the afternoon, tiredness is taking its toll!

Even climbing down is climbing!

A nice resting place near refuge Elisabetta

Lake Miage, another icy lake

The end of the day: tired but happy!

At Seigne pass

Fours pass: yes it is very steep!

Fours pass: ascending ahead of the group… and the mule!

The last névé at nearly 3000 m high

Noisette and her new guide!

After the longest lap, at the col du Bonhomme

Ready to fly!

Mule drawn?